Monday, April 16, 2012

Glass Beach

Glass Beach:

Glass Beach Fort Bragg California
inside one of the treasure coves at low tide


















Glass Beach
Fort Bragg, California

Time will bring to light whatever is hidden;
it will cover up and conceal what is now shining in splendor.
Quintus Horatius Flaccus


Iconic Glass Beach actually consists of three different sites.
All were created by the demise of three massive municipal dumping grounds.
Just like a regular land fill, this sea fill was used for cars, appliances, toys and assorted garbage of all kinds.  Judging by the massive amount of spark plugs we still found embedded in the rocks (perhaps of their chemical compound), we must assume that thousands of cars must have ended up in the ocean between the time they opened this dump (1906) and the time they shut it down (1967).  Beginning in 1906, this picturesque coast line was used as the municipal garbage dump which may sound unimaginable now.  Locals simply called the coast line "The Dumps".  In those days, dumping garbage in the ocean, was the perfect solution for sanitary reasons.  Land fills brought out rats and diseases, so dumping waste in the ocean was considered perfectly normal.  Glass Beach consists of three separate dumping grounds.  Time, weather and the sea salt have dissolved (almost) everything that was dumped, leaving behind mostly the glass (from car windows, toys, appliances, bottles, etc).  The Ocean with its consistent churning waves has acted like a giant rock tumbler.  All those sharp pieces of glass were turned into softly rounded pebbles.

 The best time to visit Glass Beach is at low tide, preferably after a big storm since this always brings new treasures to light.  On a recent trip to Glass Beach in April, we felt like veritable archeologists.  On a brisk Saturday morning, after the sun had burned off the early morning fog, we wondered along the windswept beach in search of early 20th century archeological treasure.  As we made our way along the winding path of the rocky cliffs, we caught our first glimpse of what would lay below.  Serious archeologists would undoubtedly frown upon the dubious notion of such a young discovery site but we felt like veritable explorers stranded on treasure island.  The Spring storm, which had pounded California's Northern coast the day before, had resulted in a rock slide at the Southern tip of the beach (Site 2).  A landslide, caused by the storm and its accompanying waves, had exposed century old China, marbles, hand blown bottles, car parts, electrical insulators and glass, lots of glass in all shapes and colors.  Looking for treasure, against the soothing backdrop of the sound of the curling waves, letting the round pebbles slide through our hands, was an addictive and utterly relaxing experience.  As the gently rolling waves were pushing in and pulling back,  the tiny glass beach pebbles created a transcending, almost meditative shimmering sound.  With millions of translucent glass pebbles glistering in the early morning sun, Glass Beach certainly was an extraordinary sight to behold.        


Visiting Glass Beach:
Glass Beach is within an easy 10-minute drive from picturesque Mendocino (the town made famous by the 'Murder She Wrote' series) and is close to a 3 hour drive from San Francisco.  There is a small parking lot at the end of West Elm Street.  Halfway down the path that leads to Glass Beach is a fork.  Most visitors will take the path to the right which leads to Glass Beach (Site 3).  Glass cannot be collected from this beach as it is a protected state park.  In fact, so much glass was collected over the years that this beach now resembles a regular sand beach.  Locals know better of course and take the left turn in the fork.  Following the path on the left, make sure to follow the fence line as you exit the park.  This will lead you to Site 2 which was used in the 1940s and 1950s.  The cliffs are pretty steep and slippery so descending them can be tricky (not recommended for children).  Make sure to wear good shoes (no flip flops).  Wash your hands after handling the glass pebbles.  Although the dumps were shut down close to half a century ago, there is still some chemical- and rust run off, especially along the cliffs.  Take your camera for some really beautiful kodak moments.  The best place to stay is the Brewery Gulch Inn located in nearby Mendocino.

Glass Beach Location
Corner of West Elm Street and Glass Beach Drive
Fort Bragg, California

Text and Image Credits: © Lucia Fontana for moderndesign.org


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